Unpack your new Power Garden Shed like a pro with these assembly instructions!
So your investing in a Power Garden Shed, nice work. This handy shed comes with all of the necessary components and we've a full instruction guide on how best to assemble them, so there is nothing for you to do but unpack it!
Installing this product will not be as difficult or overwhelming as one might think - just follow our simple steps in the accompanying guide.
Unpacking your pent or apex garden shed safely is a two person job. Place the pallet on firm level ground that can support it, cut through the plastic banding with scissors to remove each panel by removing screws one column at a time as indicated below and checking all of them against corresponding instructions and checklists for their respective parts before installation.
All of our garden sheds require a firm and level base. To ensure that there is access to all sides for maintenance work and annual treatment, think about where the building will be constructed before you start digging! Remember not to place the base too close any walls or fences as it may come into contact with an overhang on your roof if placed in such proximity.
The slim base is designed to be easily tucked under the building's external measurements, while it would overhang and act as a water runoff. You should make sure that your flooring has at least 25mm of clearance from ground level so that any excess rain won't flood into your space.
We supply a range of shed bases that you can use to build your Power Shed on securely. Alternatively, hardcore or concrete also make for secure bases.
So you're ready to fix things like an expert. You'll have a wide variety of screws in all shapes and sizes, including the most popular types: 25mm silver ones for delicate work or 35mm black ones if strength is needed more than finesse; 50-70 mm long galvanised nails for fixing felt on your roofing - nothing beat these when it comes to making sure water doesn't pierce through to ruin furniture inside!
You need to slide the bottom panel out and remove all of those little blocks you see on it.
To make your window panels last as long as possible, move these transport blocks off so that they don't get in the way
In the instructions we will talk about screwing panels together. We recommend this is done with a drill, which can help to avoid splitting your timber. Here are some tips on how best to use pre-drill bits: -You should always make sure that your bit has an appropriate sized tip width and length; these two specifications determine just how deep into the surface of wood it penetrates when drilling holes.
Lay down your floor panel(s) onto the ground to see where it would best fit in relation to any overhangs that may be on your shed.
Joining the floor panels together is essential for sturdiness and safety. Use three screws on each side of every joint to make sure that your roof will be sturdy enough, even if it’s under heavy loads from a thunderstorm or other activity! Once you have joined all of the pieces with framing members at both ends, screw in two ‘heavy duty bearers’ (pieces of framing) placed about 1 foot away from either end corner where triangular gable tops are going later using these same 3-screw technique.
Join up your wooden planks by securing them firmly alongside one another with 50mm screws.
Your shed will either come with a single door or double doors, depending on what you selected when ordering. Double doors are already hung from the pre-installed panel; however, for a single door it is up to preference which direction round they hang (left hand opening or right hand).
Secure the hinges in place using the screws provided. This will make sure that your door is sturdy and secure.
Your shed will come with a number of wall sections. The quantity of these depend on what type and size you ordered - there could be 4ft Blank Panels, 2ft Blank Panels, 4ft Window Panels (unless you have selected the windowless version), or even an optional door panel that can either be single-door or double-doors if needed!
Position the panels on your garden building in whichever order you want. Lay out all of the wall and door pieces, but leave some open for a window later. Make sure that when positioning them they are flush with one another so there is no overlapping or gaps between any parts. Remember to start at either end - top or bottom - depending on what part will be visible once it's built up!
You can choose the position of doors and windows as you build your shed. Additionally, when securing panels together make sure they line up at top to ensure a clean look in all four corners for future installations such as doors or windows and use the 50mm screws.
The process is simple and straightforward, with only a few necessary steps. First of all, once you have secured the wall panels securely to one another using screws at each corner; then use two 70mm long screws for every panel securing them into place on the floorboards below by screwing through both sets of boards in order to provide stability that will never fall over from even strong winds or storms.
Line up the gable tops with the panels at their ends (the ones you already secured to your house). Secure them to these same panels using 50mm screws from inside, screwing upwards through the framing. After this, attach each trusses on either side of your wall panel and secure it in place by nailing four 40mm galvanized nails into its sides - they should line-up perfectly with any joints that are visible.
You should put the end of your truss on the frame and nail it down through these structures. This makes sure that you get a roof without any gaps or holes in it!
Next, the apex roof panels:
The roof panels will alternate at each end of the roof, ensuring that all seams line up and creating a smooth look. The slightly longer 1302mm roofs on either side create an overhang for protection from rain or snow while still leaving room for natural light to filter in through windows below.
By using the batons, which come with screws to join the roof panels together, you have something that can easily attach itself or be joined by another item nearby without much fuss. Simply screw in 50mm screws on either side of the top panel where there is an opening for it then place your new design piece into position (not forgetting both sides). Afterward start off starting at one end placing a roof panel at each side and attaching them internally with 70mm long internal threads from inside out until they're completely connected.
For a professional finish, you can work your way down the roof panel by adding adjoining panels to the baton that is on an already attached component. This will create a seamless look and make it easy for you when working with all of these parts in order to build up this structure. Every four feet there should be six screws joining them together which will add stability throughout each section while making sure everything stays nice and secure as they are being used during construction or any other time after completion where they need protection.
Ensure the roof panel overhang is even – there should be an approx. 56mm overhang at each end. Finished with screws, place one screw every 50 mm into the side wall panels and then another two in a row on either side of that for support while placing it to ensure all of your sheets are aligned when attaching them together as well! Then attach these pieces onto their gables by using four more screws which will make sure you're supported from both sides so they don't sag or fall off during high winds!
Secure the roofing as the roof is now one of the most important aspects to a shed. First, find out if there are trusses or not by looking up at where the ceiling meets in cross beams on top. If they have them then screw down through each panel into these with 35mm screws making sure there's 8 per truss (4x from both sides).
The best way to keep your roof safe from the elements is by installing a mineral felt. This will provide protection for when ice and snow are heavy on top of it, as well as help prevent leaks in case water gets underneath it. To install this product you need to first roll out the material along one side of your roof framing allowing enough overhang downward onto the other end that can be folded back up again without going under where sunlight cannot reach (which would damage any exposed fibers). Once rolled out use clout nails at both sides near each edge which will attach into the boards so they stay secure against wind gusts or rain coming down hard during storms.
Add the pent front top to the side you want to be higher and screw it in place with 50mm screws. Line up your gable tops at their ends (the sides where you attached ‘heavy duty bearer’) aligning them with panels on either end, then secure them firmly by using more than one woodscrew from inside of each beam. Make sure that when attaching these last pieces into position, they are screwed upwards through the framing so as not to risk any damage being done.
Next, the pent roof panels:
By using roof panels that are the appropriate size, it is possible to maintain a correct overhang on both sides of your building. Make sure you place these in their proper location so as not to mess up this important detail!
Use your hands and a screwdriver to create an opening that's just the right size. Then, use 50mm screws in conjunction with pre-drilled holes you created carefully beforehand through both roof panels and framing on one side of the wall panel near it from inside out for this project but don't worry about doing so until after attaching these parts together because there are other things like shingles or tiles which will cover up any visible marks left behind by angling them at 90 degrees away from each other before using those same lengths of metal strips as was done earlier when creating openings between two walls.
Join bottom edges (gables) into top edge (roof panels) tightly with 50 mm long screws threaded all way around perimeter while ensuring you screw up through the framing.
Adding the felt…
With the back bargeboards nailed down, you can now lay felt on top of them. The first time I did this project was a lot harder than it seems because there were two sets that needed to be cut and then attached with nails every few inches around their perimeter.
Use clout nails to tack along the top edge of the felt and into the roof board. Repeat this process on all sides for a clean finish you can be proud of!
Fit the bargeboards to your roof by using 40mm galvanized nails. Sizes may need cutting down with a saw depending on what size building you have, and corners should be secured at each one of them for stability.
Extra strips are provided in case there is any join between side wall panels so that it will not break apart when standing strong against heavy winds or snowfall!